How Cycling The Erie Canalway Trail Will Make You Rethink Your Approach to Travel

As a cyclist, you’ve undoubtedly had moments when scenery has literally stopped you in your tracks.  And, if you constantly fight the urge to speed through rides focused on your speedometer, cycling The Erie Canalway Trail might just change your focus. Slowing down to take in the scenery along the most commercially enduring and historically significant canal system in the United States might be a turning point for you and the way you travel.

The 360-mile Erie Canalway Trail route runs east and west between Buffalo and Albany in Upstate New York.  Along the way, it links major cities such as Syracuse, Utica, and Rome with smaller towns and villages such as Frankfort, Herkimer, and Little Falls.  As of 2020, the Erie Canalway Trail forms the east-west arm of the Empire State Trail, which connects north to the Canadian border and south to New York City.  This multi-use trail invites bicyclists to explore New York State’s extraordinary experiences, incredible scenery, fascinating history, and unparalleled cycling.

There really isn’t a better way to discover a new destination than from the saddle of a bicycle.  Instead of rushing through Upstate New York in a car, why not take your time to burn the beautiful landscape deep into your memory?  (Don’t worry about burning your calves too much- the trail is mostly level with an average grade of 1% since it mostly follows canal and rail corridors).  You’re trapped in a steel and glass bubble in a car, separated from the environment.  But on a bike, you’re hyperaware of the world around you.  As you pedal, you feel the wind on your skin, and travel becomes more about the journey than the destination.  When you stop in the Mohawk Valley, admiring sparkling quartz crystals known as Herkimer Diamonds or watching one of the highest lift locks in the world (check out Lock 17) gives you much more of a tactile sense of the land and the history of its people.

Choose to be more deliberate with your travel.  It’s all too easy to see many of a place’s highlights but not truly experience any of them.  If you’re not pedaling a bike, try to find other ways to slow down.  If you’re ready to bake in time to explore and let the day’s events unfold naturally, we’re here to help.  For ease of planning, the trail is divided into four sections.  We’ve got all the details you need to plan a one- or two-day trip on Section 3: Syracuse to Little Falls and Section 4: Little Falls to Albany.  We suggest exploring the trail from west to east because the prevailing westerly winds make this direction the path of least resistance.

Getting Here

By Air:  Syracuse Hancock International Airport or Albany International Airport

By Rail: Amtrak’s Maple Leaf Line runs from Toronto, Canada, to New York City along the Erie Canal, making stops along the way.  Reservations are required to carry your bike on the train.

By Car:  Take the New York State Thruway (I-90) to your destination.  If you want to keep a car with you throughout the trip, consider traveling in a group with a rotating driver.  The driver can park the car at the day’s final destination and then make their way back to the group on the trail.

By Bike: The Empire State Trail website and Parks & Trails New York’s Cycle the Eerie Canal will show you how to link to the Canalway Trail by bicycle.

Where to Stay

Grand Colonial Bed and Breakfast is a New York State Bike-Friendly Certified Accommodation located in the Village of Herkimer (two miles from the trail) at the eastern edge of Section 3 and western edge of Section 4, making it the perfect basecamp while cycling either or both Sections.

We invite cyclists to spend the night at our comfortably elegant 1890s Colonial-style house.  Each of our four guest rooms offers rich colors and patterns, upscale furnishings, premium bedding, free wi-fi and cable TV, and private en suite bathrooms (travel tip: book our Kingsland Room to enjoy a jet tub experience in the newly remodeled private bath).  Enjoy a delicious, made-to-order homemade breakfast in the morning before hitting the trial again.

We offer our cycling guests free secured bicycle storage in our garage.  Motor vehicle parking is also free in our parking lot.  We have a bicycle service/repair station onsite.

Book your stay directly with us at grand-colonial.com or call 315-982-5004 to enjoy exclusive benefits including our best rate guarantee, no pre-payment required, return guest discount, and free cancellation if your plans change.

trail

Trip 1:
Cycle from Rome to Herkimer
(30 miles in one day)

When in Rome…

Your first stop is Fort Stanwix National Monument.  Known as “the fort that never surrendered,” it was constructed to protect the western headwaters of the Mohawk River during the French and Indian War.  Fort Stanwix National Monument, a reconstruction of the fort managed by the National Park Service, provides a glimpse of life in an 18th century military outpost.

Sample the Local Flavor in Utica…

RiggiesIn the late 1800s, many Italian immigrants who came to work on enlarging the Erie Canal settled in the Utica-Rome area.  As a result, there’s ample authentic Italian dining.  Be sure to try chicken riggies, a local favorite and delicious blend of chicken, rigatoni, and hot or sweet peppers, served in a spicy cream and tomato sauce.  Then there’s Utica Greens, an Italian-American signature side dish traditionally made with escarole, hot cherry peppers, and garlic.  Ready for dessert?  Try a Half Moon Cookie.  Originating in Utica in 1920, these cake-like cookies have vanilla or chocolate bottoms and are half-frosted with smooth chocolate fudge and white buttercream frosting.

Visit the Marinas in Frankfort and Ilion…

Frankfort MarinaCheck out Heelpath Brewing Company at the Frankfort Marina if you’re into craft breweries.  This local favorite features 12 beers on tap, each fused with local ingredients from around New York State.  From there, the Ilion Marina is only a few miles down the trail.  Considered one of the best, well-kept facilities along the New York State Canal System, the Ilion Marina has a self-serve bicycle repair station, picnic area, bathhouse with showers, and restaurant onsite.  The Remington Arms Gun Museum is close by.

Coast into Herkimer….

Enjoy Dinner on the Canal. Waterfront GrilleIf you’re looking for a dinner spot, Waterfront Grille is located at Gems Along the Mohawk in the Herkimer Marina.  It is one of Central New York’s best-rated dining experiences.  A local favorite for more than 20 years, this restaurant offers casual dining with a view of the Erie Canal.

Spend the Night at Grand Colonial Bed and Breakfast

With good weather comes even more opportunity to enjoy the outdoors.  As our guest, we invite you and your group to enjoy our two outdoor seating areas as you wind down and prepare for the next day’s activities – the porch with rocking chairs, and back deck with lounge chairs and a fire pit table are guest favorites.

When it’s time to turn in for the night you’ll get premium rest in a comfortable bed.  In the morning, enjoy a made-to-order homemade breakfast.  We’ve built relationships with local Central New York farmers and are proud to use high-quality, locally-sourced ingredients.  Breakfast is complimentary and you’re welcome to order whatever you would like from our breakfast menu.

Remember to book your stay in advance at grand-colonial.com or by calling 315-982-5004.  Cancellation is free if your plans change.

Canal Place

Trip 2:
Cycle from Herkimer to Fonda
(27 miles in one day)

On Your Way Out of Town…

Fort Herkimer ChurchFort Herkimer Church is a must-see for locals and out-of-town travelers.  It was built in 1767 and served as a fortress in the French and Indian, and Revolutionary Wars.  It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972.

Explore Little Falls…

BeerCycle from the harbor over the Route 167 Bridge and turn right to visit Canal Place.  These historic mill buildings, perched on the canal, are now home to unique restaurants, antique sellers, and boutique shops.  Try the local brews at Rock Valley Brewing Co, or enjoy even more Italian fare at Ruggiero’s Trattoria.

Lock 17

Lock 17 Eerie CanalThe highest lift on the canal system, this lock carries boats up and down at heights of over 40 feet.  It was once the highest lock lift in the world.  Trails for Moss Island begin here.  You can reach the lock from Canal Place or from the Canalway Trail on the south side of the canal.

Moss Island National Natural Landmark:

Moss Island PotholePopular with rock climbers, this island is known for its 40 to 50-foot-deep glacial potholes and ancient crystalline rock.  The island offers excellent rock climbing opportunities (a range of easy to challenging climbs).  Trails will take you around the island in about 40 minutes.  Moss Island is adjacent to Lock 17.

Relive History at the General Herkimer Home Site…

Herkimer Home State Historic SiteCycling east from Little Falls, you’ll reach the Herkimer Home State Historic Site in three miles.   Home of Nicholas Herkimer, a Revolutionary War General who led the defeat of the British in the Battle of Oriskany, you can stroll on the picturesque grounds or take a house tour.  Admission is usually less than $5 for adults.  Day use and picnicking are free for all.

 Experience Mohawk Valley Villages…

The next stretch of the trail travels through the Mohawk Valley Villages of St. Johnsville, Fort Plain, Nelliston, Canajoharie, Palatine Bridge, Fultonville, and Fonda.  Retaining much of their early Erie Canal character, buildings constructed in the canal area still line the original downtown streetscapes, with Victorian homes, historic churches, and local museums on full display.  In Canajoharie, the Arkell Museum offers an impressive collection of American Impressionist paintings, as well as landscapes of the Erie Canal.  There are several good food options nearby.